This following little gem of mine, is a quick look at one particular form of boat fishing practised on Trout reservoirs around the country.  Primarily used to catch Trout, it works just as well for Pike.

Maybe not the type of “Fly Fishing” you might expect, but a very good way to locate and catch Predatory fish.  In fact to some in the Trout Fishing world, this method is frowned upon to the extent of bans being talked of [this usually means it’s a good method!].

Tackle. Life Jackets are essential!!

Your usual Pike fly rod should be up to the job, but you will need a selection of lines. E.G.. Slow sink, Fast sink and sinks like a brick!  A floater is generally not a lot of good unless the Pike are sipping in Dry Roach.  Plenty of 20lb [at least] backing on a good-sized reel, 20lb leader with a wire trace at the business end.  The usual Lunker sized net, plenty of padding in the bottom of the boat, Ooh yes a boat would be useful!

At most Trout Waters you must hire a boat, usually best booked in advance to avoid disappointment.  The boat usually comes with a pair of oars, an engine and an anchor.  The anchors are usually rubbish, especially in a bit of a blow, so make [see how at the end] and take your own. 

Use plenty of rope [not thin nylon rope, it cuts your hands to shreds] and a good length of heavy chain.  Now you may be wondering why you need an anchor if you are drifting?  You are?  Well if you are near to the windward shore and you hook a good fish, dropping the anchor can save you from the embarrassment of running aground and not being able to get the boat afloat again.  Believe me, in a decent wind on places such as Rutland and Grafham it’s easily done.  I remember some idiot doing just that on Rutland during a Pike Fishing day, when he couldn't get out again, he phoned the lodge and complained that the boats shouldn't have been allowed out in such rough weather and got us all taken off!! Bastard!!  You will also find a Drogue [big parachute type thing] useful.

Back-Drifting.

As engines can’t be used to actually move the boat when your lines are in the water the boat is virtually un-steerable.  However, you can if you have one, use a clamp on rudder  or if you don’t, you can use the oars, but not in the conventional way [only allowed in the trolling areas].  A length of rope can be used or ideally a cycle inner tube, to tie the extreme ends of the oars [one each side] into the rowlocks.  The oar blade edges need to be vertical when tied in.  The oars help to keep the boat straight although you may have to adjust the direction by pushing and/or pulling on the either of the oars.  This is easily achieved by just reaching over the gun-whale. 

Starting at the upwind end of your chosen drift, aim the boat downwind, making sure the oars are neatly alongside the boat.  If you are fishing two up, both of you need to be towards the rear, this has the effect of lifting the bows out of the water and hopefully give the wind something to get a grip on.  This is usually a low wind scenario, as you may be going too fast otherwise.  Your flies can now be cast either side of the boat and allowed to sink [paying out backing if you wish], eventually the flies will swing in behind the boat, where upon you can either just hang on to the line or strip it back in to recast.  Either way you must synchronise your casting with your companion or one of you could end up being hooked.

This method will cover a lot of water in a fairly short time [if you have a rudder it is much easier], all that is required of the angler now, is to try different pattern flies, different density lines, different areas and different speeds.  Remember the faster you go the line doesn’t get as deep, so more speed means faster sinking lines.  If you think you are drifting to fast, either use a drogue or turn the boat side on to reduce speed.  With the right type of drogue you can steer the boat when sideways on, but not easily, this is another little skill that needs plenty of practise!

Another useful item is a floating marker, if you or your companion get a take or hook a fish, pop a marker over the side so you can cover that area again more thoroughly.  A brightly painted plastic Coke bottle, attached to 50 feet of 20lb mono with a 5oz sea lead attached is all that’s required. Of course you could always buy yourself a handheld GPS unit.

Another point on the use of clamp on rudders, you can actually steer the boat with one of these, although you mustn’t let the boat get too side on or it all goes overboard [sorry about that one].  Predatory fish just can’t resist a change of speed or direction.  On the turn the outside line speeds up and rises in the water, while the inside line does the opposite, so expect takes when zigzagging with a rudder

Trolling.  Briefly!

Trolling can be utilised in certain marked areas on Trout waters, this is only allowed by using the oars to power the boat.  Again this method is frowned on by "Traditionalists" as not being what fly fishing is all about.  Same principle as Back-drifting, but can be done upwind as well, although with much more effort.  Zigzagging again is very effective, just make sure your rod is well tethered to the boat, as takes can be quite spectacular, very often with the rod leaping into the air and disappearing over the stern at an alarming rate of knots.  It is good idea to have a length of foam pipe lagging on the butt of the rod so if it does go swimming you can usually retrieve it.  Trolling areas tend to be in the deeper water E.G. at Rutland up to 110 feet deep, although fish do inhabit these depths, I would stick to the 20 – 50 foot areas.

Fly Lines.  More thoughts.

Achieving maximum depths used to involve the use of Lead Core lines and in fact these are still used widely.  However in recent years a more cast-able line has been developed, namely the Di Line.  I have found that a Di8 line goes down almost as quickly as a Lead Core and thus makes an excellent trolling line that can be cast in relative safety.  I have been in a boat with both of us casting straight lead lines, it's something that I don't enjoy much and you need to keep your head well down in order to stay alive!  Modern technology is moving on apace and I am sure we can expect even better lines in the near future.

More on Rods

Some critics of Pike Fly Fishing reckon our rods are not up to landing large pike quickly, thus saving stress to the fish.  Using the above methods you could always use a light Jerk Bait or Heavy spinning rod.  Obviously, not made for casting, but certainly for paying out a line behind the boat. 

Works really well some days! 

However modern Pike Fly Rods are pretty damn powerful and I feel are well up to the job. However, I wouldn't recommend any rod rated under a 9 weight.

Colin Brett ©2002