|
|
|
[Traces] [Knots] [Rod Suppliers]
To reviews of the new Shakespeare Pike Fly Rods & Lines click on the Links below
|
My own preference in rods is for a length of 9' rated for a 9# or 10# line. I have found in more recent years, rod builders tend to err on the side of caution when it comes to rating rods. Hence most modern rods, in my opinion, will usually take a size up in line rating. e.g.. 9# becomes 10#! I prefer the 9' rod purely because it requires less leverage. It will also need to be able to lift a big heavy fly from the water without too much effort, as I can assure you this side of Pike fishing can be extremely hard work, and the less false casting the better. There are several rods available now that take even heavier lines [11# & 12#]. For long casting shooting heads will give improved distances. Reels For normal Trout fly fishing, most anglers will hand line when playing a fish, so all that the reel does is store the line! Well that's what I use them for! For Pike Fly Fishing, the reel can be used to try to control the fish, so a decent drag system is a good idea, along with a good amount of storage for the heavier, thicker fly line. Playing a large Pike from a revolving drum reel is a sheer delight! Various makes available are at ridiculously high prices although you should be able to find something reasonable for around £30 - £60. Lines If you can afford it, buy the best you can get! I prefer a bass line [short, heavy forward taper], these are available in a number of premier makes [Scientific Anglers and Cortland etc] but I have only found them in the floating variety. I would recommend having four lines, a floater, a slow sinker, a fast sinker, and a sink tip. I have recently purchased a 10# Shakespeare Glider Sink Tip and have no hesitation in recommending it here, an excellent line and inexpensive as well. I already own a fast sink in the form of a Di 8/9#, this casts well on my rod and sinks like a brick. It is ideal for boat fishing, in fact, it probably eliminates the need to own a lead-core line for back drifting or trolling. All the lines mentioned are full length [approx. 30 - 35 yards], you could of course use shooting heads. These are designed for distance casting, consisting of a short [10 - 12 yard] fly line [head] attached to some much thinner shooting backing. The old rule of thumb was if the rod is rated for a 9# line, you would use a 10# shooting head. However, bearing in mind my advice in the rod section, I would try two sizes up, so 9# becomes 11#. Please proceed with caution with this advice, as I cannot guarantee this will be OK with every rod. I and probably a lot of others have been looking for the perfect Trace, I have just received an ingenious trace from Ad Swier, that I feel is pretty good. [Go direct to photos] I have also acquired some single strand Titanium wire in 30lb that looks indestructible. It's made in the states by The American Wire Company and I bought mine from Rokmax www.rokmax.com email: enquiries@rokmax.com or Tel: 01872 864422. I crimp a loop at one end and a crosslok link to the other. 49 strand wire gives another dimension to traces, knots! Can still be crimped but knotting this wire is possible.
Also
on the market is Proleader!! It's light and made from stainless
steel and 100% Dyneema braid which makes Proleader thinner, softer and still
stronger. Sadly only on 3m spools and not cheap, but it certainly looks the
business. Also allows for any kinks to be smoothed out with your
fingers. Tie knots in it as well. I'm now using this almost
exclusively. So many knots! Which ones are the best? I will make a few suggestions, but I leave the decision up to you! Fly-line to leader. I use either a loop to loop connection or I nail knot a 1 metre length of 30-40lb stiff nylon mono. Leader to leader. For different thickness of mono the Double Grinner Knot takes some beating. Again the second part of the leader doesn't want to be to long, perhaps another 1 metre length. Leader to Wire Trace. I have been using a Drennan rig ring, tied to the mono with a Grinner Knot, and the Wire trace just twisted to the ring. This gives you the ability to change traces and flies complete, without loosing any length in the leader. You could of course use the Albright Knot for joining the leader to the wire trace Wire Trace to Fly. Lots of people put their faith in snap-links but quite a few have lost both flies and fish due to these coming open, so they are not ideal. A plit ring is another way but these can be a bit fiddly especially when your hands are cold. There are so many variations and combinations of joining leaders, fly-lines and wire traces, I can only suggest you stay with the ones you feel comfortable with. A good subject for the forum perhaps? Line Trays A useful item to have when fishing on banks which are overgrown or snag ridden. There's nothing worse than making a perfect cast only to see the line stopped in mid-flight because the loose line has snagged on a twig or worse still, you are standing on it! Quite cheap to purchase or easy to make your own. I prefer to have one that folds flat for easy carriage [as photos], but you can quite easily make one from a sink bowl. Just cut a slot either end of the bowl close to the corners and thread a leather belt through, job done!
I'll post some images of a newer design of line tray shortly. |
